Regulatory Information
International standards / Regulations for jewelry testing are listed below:
Jewelry Testing
(1) Nickel Release Test:
(a) REGULATION (EC) NO. 552/2009
(b) EN 1811 Reference test method for release of nickel from all post assemblies which are inserted into pierced parts of the human body and articles intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin
(c) EN 12472 Method for the simulation of wear and corrosion for the detection of nickel release from coated items
(2) Lead Content Test:
COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 836/2012
(3) Cadmium Content Test:
COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 835/2012
(4) ASTM F2999 Standard Consumer Safety Specification for Adult Jewelry
Pure Gold, Yellow Gold Alloys, and White gold alloys
(1) ISO 11426 Jewellery - Determination of gold in gold jewellery alloys - Cupellation method (fire assay)
(2) Gold composition analysis by XRF
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) Standards
ASTM develops voluntary consensus standards that are widely used in the jewelry industry. These standards cover various aspects of material testing and performance.
ASTM F2923 - Standard Specification for Consumer Product Safety for Children’s Jewelry
This critical standard specifies safety requirements for children's jewelry, including stringent limits on lead, cadmium, and other hazardous substances. It also addresses mechanical hazards, such as small parts, sharp edges, and pinch points. Compliance with ASTM F2923 is often required by retailers and regulatory agencies.
ASTM B767 - Standard Specification for Nickel-Containing Coating on Zinc and Aluminum Alloys
This standard sets requirements for nickel coatings used on jewelry, including thickness, adhesion, and corrosion resistance. It aims to minimize the risk of nickel allergy, a common skin condition triggered by prolonged contact with nickel-containing materials.
The European jewelry market is subject to a comprehensive framework of regulations and standards, primarily driven by the European Union (EU).
REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006
REACH is the cornerstone of EU chemicals regulation. It aims to protect human health and the environment from the risks posed by chemical substances. REACH requires manufacturers and importers to register chemical substances, assess their risks, and communicate this information to downstream users.
Annex XVII Restrictions
Annex XVII of REACH lists restricted substances and their conditions of restriction. Several entries are directly relevant to jewelry, including:
• Nickel Release: Limits the amount of nickel that can be released from jewelry items intended for prolonged contact with the skin. This restriction aims to prevent nickel allergy, a common skin condition affecting a significant portion of the population. The allowable nickel release limit is 0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week (µg/cm²/week) for items inserted into pierced ears and other pierced parts of the human body, and 0.2 µg/cm²/week for other items intended for prolonged contact with the skin.
• Lead Content: Restricts the use of lead in jewelry articles, particularly those accessible to children. Lead is a neurotoxin that can pose serious health risks, especially to young children. The allowable lead content is 0.05% by weight.
• Cadmium Content: Restricts the use of cadmium in jewelry, brazing fillers, and plastic components. Cadmium is a carcinogen and can also cause kidney damage and bone problems. The allowable cadmium content is 0.01% by weight.
Specific European Standards
Several European standards provide detailed testing methods and requirements for jewelry products.
EN 1811 - Reference test method for release of nickel from all post assemblies which are inserted into pierced parts of the human body and articles intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin
This standard specifies a reference test method for determining the release of nickel from jewelry items that come into prolonged contact with the skin. Compliance with EN 1811 is essential for meeting the nickel release requirements of REACH. The test involves immersing the jewelry item in an artificial sweat solution and measuring the amount of nickel released over a specified period.
EN 12472 - Method for the simulation of wear and corrosion for the detection of nickel release from coated items
This standard specifies a method for simulating wear and corrosion on coated items, such as jewelry, to assess the potential for nickel release over time. The test involves subjecting the coated item to a series of abrasion and corrosion cycles and then measuring the amount of nickel release.
International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
ISO develops and publishes international standards that are widely recognized and adopted across various industries, including jewelry.
ISO 9202:2019 - Jewelry - Fineness of precious metal alloys
This standard specifies the requirements for marking and describing the fineness (purity) of precious metal alloys used in jewelry. It establishes a standardized system for expressing fineness in parts per thousand and provides guidance on the use of terms such as "gold," "silver," and "platinum."
ISO 8654:2018 - Jewelry - Vocabulary
This standard provides a comprehensive vocabulary of terms used in the jewelry industry, promoting consistency and clarity in communication. It defines terms related to materials, manufacturing processes, gemstone characteristics, and other aspects of jewelry.
Precious Metal Analysis
Fire Assay
Fire assay is a traditional and highly accurate method for determining the gold content of jewelry alloys. It involves melting the sample with fluxes and lead, separating the gold from other metals, and weighing the resulting gold bead. Fire assay is considered the gold standard for gold analysis and is often used as a reference method for other techniques.
Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrometry (ICP-OES)
ICP-OES is a widely used technique for determining the elemental composition of jewelry alloys. It involves dissolving the sample in acid, introducing it into an inductively coupled plasma, and measuring the intensity of light emitted by the excited atoms. ICP-OES is a versatile technique that can be used to analyze a wide range of elements, including gold, silver, platinum, palladium, and base metals.
X-ray Fluorescence (XRF) Spectrometry
XRF is a non-destructive technique for determining the elemental composition of jewelry alloys. It involves irradiating the sample with X-rays and measuring the intensity of the fluorescent X-rays emitted by the sample. XRF is a relatively quick and easy technique that can be used to analyze a wide range of materials, but it is less accurate than fire assay or ICP-OES.
Gemstone Identification and Grading
Visual Examination
Visual examination is the first step in gemstone identification and grading. It involves using a loupe or microscope to examine the stone's color, clarity, cut, and other characteristics. Visual examination requires a trained gemologist with extensive knowledge of gemstone properties.
Refractometry
Refractometry is a technique for measuring the refractive index of a gemstone, which is a characteristic property that can be used to identify the stone. The refractive index is the ratio of the speed of light in a vacuum to the speed of light in the gemstone.
Spectroscopy
Spectroscopy involves analyzing the interaction of light with a gemstone to determine its chemical composition and identify any treatments or enhancements. Different types of spectroscopy, such as UV-Vis spectroscopy and Raman spectroscopy, can be used to analyze gemstones.
